Mommy Pai’s, the latest venture from the masterminds behind Thai Diner and the late Uncle Boons, seems to follow this road map—on paper, at least. Open since August, just around the corner from Thai Diner, it’s a chicken-finger joint, takeout only, with a clear culinary…
The most satisfying thing on the menu—indeed, one of my favorite dishes in the whole city right now—consists of thick-cut fried potatoes (no one does fried potatoes like Spain), massive pink shrimp, and three jiggly fried eggs. It arrives on a wave of garlic-scented air, in a hub-cap-size…
I Cavallini releases reservations two weeks in advance at 8am. All of the bar and counter seats are saved for walk-ins, and, in our experience, you can also get a walk-in table during the first seating. The trick is, line up outside no later than 4:30pm….
As at Four Horsemen, where an oeuf mayonnaise is zebra-striped with squid ink and humble beans are treated like precious gems, Curtola trusts his diners to venture beyond obvious crowd-pleasers. I was impressed to see how many tables around me had ordered the nervetti, a chilled salad…
Bong (the name comes from a Khmer term of kinship and respect) is run by the Cambodian chef Chakriya Un, who was born in a Thai refugee camp and grew up in the U.S., and her partner, Alexander Chaparro, who emigrated from Venezuela. For eight years, Un operated Kreung,…
