In unfavorable reviews, culinary diction escalates into a form of operatic invective. “Dry” turns to “dusty” or “desiccated.” “Oily” balloons to “oleaginous.” “Sour” curdles to “mouth-puckering.” Why simply call a soup “bitter” when you can hit a harsher note with “acrid” or “astringent”? Some takedown reviews read like a…
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